Harmful ingredients in cosmetics

Many conventional make-up, skincare, facial care, hair care, nail varnish, perfume and hair dye products – as well as many marketed as ‘natural’ – contain ingredients that are harsh or harmful to the health of the skin and hair. Some controversial cosmetic ingredients are even linked to health risks.

For example, they are added to make the skin feel smoother, to extend shelf life, to intensify colour, to create a more appealing scent or to improve texture, but they do not contribute to the health of the skin or hair.

Below, we explain the most common of these ingredients.

Alcohols

Alcohol (such as Alcohol Denat.)

Used to make products lighter and help them dry more quickly, but with frequent use it can dry out the skin and reduce comfort.

Dry, sensitive or reactive skin in particular may react negatively to this.

Preservatives

Preservatives are used to extend the shelf life of cosmetics and to prevent the growth of bacteria, moulds and yeasts. Some preservatives have been linked to skin irritation, hypersensitivity reactions or other potential health risks. We therefore prefer to use alternative preservation systems.

Formaldehyde-releasing agents

Formaldehyde-releasing agents are synthetic preservatives used to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by releasing small amounts of formaldehyde over an extended period. This inhibits the growth of bacteria, moulds and yeasts.

Although these substances are effective as preservatives, they are among the most controversial ingredients in cosmetics. Formaldehyde is known to be a highly sensitising substance, and formaldehyde-releasing agents can cause skin irritation, hypersensitivity reactions and allergic contact dermatitis.

Well-known formaldehyde-releasing agents include DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Quaternium-15 and Bronopol.

Methylisothiazolinone (MI)

Methylisothiazolinone (MI) is a synthetic preservative used to extend the shelf life of cosmetics and prevent the growth of bacteria, moulds and yeasts.

Although MI is effective as a preservative, it is known to be one of the most common causes of allergic contact dermatitis caused by cosmetics. In sensitive individuals, it can lead to skin irritation, itching, redness, hypersensitivity reactions and allergic skin reactions.

Due to the increasing number of reports of skin allergies, the use of methylisothiazolinone in certain cosmetic applications has been severely restricted in recent years.

Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI)

Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI) is a synthetic preservative used to extend the shelf life of cosmetics and prevent the growth of bacteria, moulds and yeasts.

MCI is known to be a highly sensitising substance and is regularly linked to skin irritation, itching, redness, hypersensitivity reactions and allergic contact dermatitis. People with sensitive or reactive skin are particularly susceptible to this.

Methylchloroisothiazolinone is often used in combination with Methylisothiazolinone (MI). It is precisely this combination that has, in the past, led to a sharp increase in cosmetics-related skin allergies.

Parabens

Parabens are synthetic preservatives used to extend the shelf life of cosmetics and prevent the growth of bacteria, moulds and yeasts.

Although parabens are effective preservatives, they have been among the most discussed and controversial ingredients in cosmetics for many years. Certain parabens are linked to potential disruption of the endocrine system, as they may have a weak oestrogenic effect.

In addition, parabens can cause skin irritation, hypersensitivity reactions and allergic skin reactions.

Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol is a synthetic preservative used to extend the shelf life of cosmetics and prevent the growth of bacteria, moulds and yeasts.

Although phenoxyethanol is effective as a preservative, this substance is regularly the subject of debate due to potential skin irritations and hypersensitivity reactions. People with sensitive or reactive skin may be particularly susceptible to these effects.

Furthermore, some experts view phenoxyethanol critically due to potential health effects associated with prolonged or frequent exposure. Consequently, the cosmetics industry is subject to legal restrictions on the maximum concentration in which this substance may be used.

Emulsifiers

Emulsifiers are used to blend water, oils and other ingredients together and to give cosmetic products a stable texture. Some synthetic emulsifiers may weaken the skin’s natural barrier function or may contain toxic traces.

PEGs (Polyethylene Glycols)

These synthetic emulsifiers are used to blend water, oils and other ingredients and to improve the texture of products.

PEGs can weaken the skin’s natural barrier function, making it easier for other harmful synthetic substances to penetrate and be absorbed by the skin.

Furthermore, trace amounts of the toxic substances ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane may remain during the manufacturing process.

Polysorbates

Polysorbates are synthetic emulsifiers used to blend water, oils, fragrances and other ingredients together and to give cosmetic products a stable texture.

Although polysorbates are effective as emulsifiers, they are often produced using ethoxylation. As a result, trace amounts of undesirable substances such as ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane may remain during the production process if raw materials are not sufficiently purified.

In addition, some polysorbates can weaken the skin’s natural barrier function, making it easier for other substances to come into contact with the skin. People with sensitive or reactive skin, in particular, may sometimes experience increased skin irritation or discomfort as a result.

Propylene Glycol

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic substance used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant and texture enhancer. It helps the product retain moisture and ensures that ingredients are more easily distributed over the skin or hair.

Although propylene glycol is widely used in cosmetics, it is regularly the subject of debate due to potential skin irritations and hypersensitivity reactions. People with sensitive, reactive or damaged skin, in particular, may be more prone to reacting to it.

In addition, propylene glycol can enhance the absorption of other substances through the skin. This allows certain ingredients to reach deeper layers of the skin more easily, which is not always desirable for sensitive skin.

Film-formers

These are used to help products adhere better to the skin, nails or hair and remain in place for longer, but they form a sealing layer on the skin.

This prevents the skin from absorbing oxygen and hinders important skin functions such as the release of sebum, heat and waste products.

Colourants and pigments

Bismuth Oxychloride

Used to give make-up a shimmering or light-reflecting effect, but may cause irritation, itching or discomfort in some people with sensitive skin.

Synthetic colourants

Are added to give products colour and appeal, but do not contribute to the effectiveness or care of the skin or hair.

Some synthetic colourants can cause skin irritation, hypersensitivity reactions and allergic reactions.

Contaminated pigments

Colour pigments largely determine the quality of make-up, hair dye and other coloured cosmetic products.

The purity and origin of pigments are important, as lower-quality pigments may contain undesirable contaminants.

Microplastics and polymers

Microplastics

Synthetic particles used as a cost-effective way to give products more texture and structure. Microplastics have no skin-care benefits and can inadvertently enter the body via the mouth, lips and the area around the eyes.

Furthermore, they are very slow to degrade and accumulate in the body and the environment.

Mineral oils

Used to give products a smooth feel on the skin and a creamy or supple texture, but they form a sealing layer on the skin. This prevents the skin from absorbing oxygen and hinders important skin functions such as the removal of sebum, heat and waste products.

Although mineral oils temporarily make the skin feel less rough, they do not actively contribute to nourishing or caring for the skin.

Nanoparticles

Particles that have been deliberately reduced to the nanoscale through technological processing in order to alter or enhance the properties of a raw material.

Due to their extremely small size, substances at the nanoscale can behave differently from the same substance in its original, larger particle form, raising questions about their potential effects on and safety for the human body and the environment.

PFAS

Used for their water-repellent properties, long-lasting hold and the smooth feel they give to the skin.

These synthetic substances are linked to potential health risks; they hardly break down at all and accumulate over the long term in both humans and the environment.

Silicones

Are used to make products glide on more smoothly and give the skin a silky-soft feel, but they form a sealing layer on the skin. This prevents the skin from absorbing oxygen and hinders important skin functions such as the removal of sebum, heat and waste products.

In hair care, silicones give the hair a smooth and shiny appearance, but they can build up on the hair’s surface, making the hair heavier and reducing the absorption of nourishing ingredients.

Sulphates

SLS & SLES

Sulphates such as Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES) are used in shampoos, shower gels, facial cleansers and other cleansing products because of their powerful cleansing and foaming properties.

Although sulphates create a rich lather, they remove not only dirt and excess sebum but also some of the natural protective oils from the skin, scalp and hair. This can cause the skin and hair to dry out, leading to irritation, itching, a tight feeling on the skin or a sensitive scalp.

Particularly for dry, sensitive or reactive skin and scalp, we believe milder cleansing ingredients are a better choice, as they are less likely to disrupt the natural balance of the skin and hair.

Synthetic fragrances

These are usually added to mask the unpleasant odour of synthetic ingredients in cosmetics, but are among the most common causes of allergic reactions to cosmetics.

With prolonged or repeated contact, synthetic fragrances can make the skin hypersensitive and, when exposed to UV radiation, can also trigger further skin reactions.

They do not contribute to the effectiveness or care of the skin or hair.

Talc

Talc of unknown origin

Is used to give products a soft texture and a matt finish.

The quality and origin of talc are important, as inadequately controlled raw materials may contain undesirable contaminants.

Why we take a critical view of this

We prefer cosmetics that use high-quality ingredients such as pure mineral pigments, organic plant extracts, nourishing plant oils, natural waxes, moisturising ingredients and soothing plant compounds.

Not every synthetic ingredient is automatically harmful, and not every natural raw material is automatically better. However, we do believe that cosmetics should, first and foremost, contain safe and healthy ingredients that have an active, nourishing effect on the skin and hair.

That is why we take a critical view of ingredients that have no nourishing value and that may burden or harm the environment, the skin and health.